Tanzania Safari: Part Two

Day 5 Highlights -

We drove up through the morning fog to the Ngorongoro Crater Rim, past some scenically-located (I think I made that word up) Maasai villages, and then headed down to Oldupai Gorge. We stopped at the museum and met with an expert on the area who explained to us that this is a very important anthropological and archaeological site. Most famously, it was here in 1959 that the Leakeys discovered fossilized footprints of a race of early humans that would later become present-day humankind. This finding lead us to a better understanding of human evolution.

In the afternoon we would get our first taste of Serengeti National Park. On the way to our campsite, we spotted three lions in the tall grass. Other animals we saw today were wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, spotted hyenas, Thompson and Grant gazelle, warthogs, jackals, ostriches, and as always some amazing birds.

Arriving at the hillside campsite it was raining, but the tents were already set up and the staff was there to welcome us. This camp, set in the heart of the Serengeti (among nature and the wild animals), would be our home for the next four nights.

Day 6 Highlights -

Amped up and ready to go, we set out for a morning game drive in the central Serengeti. The goal for this drive was big game cats. We headed towards lion, leopard, and cheetah country. Six hours later, we had not seen any of them. We had, however, seen plenty of wildlife... topi antelope, mongoose, spotted hyena, hippos (in the water), cape buffalo, hartebeest, reed bok, vultures and other birds.

After a late lunch and a short rest at camp, we went back out hoping to once again spot some cats. And let's just say the afternoon delivered on lions! First, we saw a mom with two little cubs out in the grass. Then a little later, we came across three more lions on the top of a termite mound. Driving away, all I could think was how fortunate we were to see six lions in an hour's time. How could it get any better? Here's how... a pride of at least eight lions hanging out by the river, one of them a mere 20 feet from the road!!! It was astounding!

I enjoyed a campfire, a plentiful and delicious dinner, the eyes of a hyena reflecting in the light of the flashlight on the way back to the tent (they reflect green by the way), and a glimpse of the moon and stars through the clouds before the animals sang me to sleep.

Day 7 Highlights -

Today we explored the western corridor of Serengeti National Park and picked up right where we left off the day before. Only 30 minutes into the drive, a single female lion was perched on a mound beside the road. As we watched her, she started calling out to her cubs and when they didn't come she got up and started looking for them, crossing the road in front of us to do so. When she was out of view we continued down the road.

About 5 minutes later, we came across another lion sitting in the tall grass. Upon further examination, we realized this "teenage" cub was there with some other cubs and a lead female. They were eyeing the zebras in the field and planning their attack. Slowly and one-by-one they spread out, surrounded a group of zebras, and started to close in. The lead female crept low in the grass while the cubs stood a little taller and kept their distance. They acted as a distraction as the female got closer and closer to the zebra herd. When the female was within striking distance she waited for a lone zebra to step just far enough away from the group and then she pounced! Helped by one of the cubs, they drug the zebra to the ground. One jumped on the back while the other bit at the throat. The zebra did not go down easily, but it had no chance. The cubs played joyously, celebrating the kill, and then enjoyed their feast. It was one of the most thrilling things I have ever seen!!! I had a front row seat to it all. National Geographic would have been jealous! Talking with our guide later, what we witnessed was an extremely rare sight. Not very many people get to see a lion-zebra kill, let alone the entire thing start to end. Unbelievable!

Because all of this happened in the first hour and a half of our drive, there was still time for so much more to see. In the last few years, migration location of the zebras and wildebeest has been much harder to predict. However, we ventured to an area where they might be. And once again, our guides did not disappoint. The size of the animal herds we saw migrating were spectacular. There were thousands upon thousands of zebras and wildebeest. No exaggeration! Masses of animals as far as you could see. You have to see it to believe it!

As if that wasn't enough, there were two more animals to add to the list... crocodile and the ever elusive leopard. Leopards are extremely difficult to spot. I take that back... leopards are extremely difficult to see, they are always spotted ;) But seriously, they usually hide anytime there are unusual sights or sounds. So, if you are lucky enough to view one, it is almost always from a very long distance. And for us, today, it was no exception. But I was more than satisfied with just seeing one through binoculars.

Another incredible day in the Serengeti!

Day 8 Highlights -

We woke to a colorful sunrise and started our day with a morning game drive. Two and a half things left on my list that I really wanted to see... 1) Cheetah 2) Rhino 2.5) A better view of a leopard.

We saw quite a lot of game (hyenas, gazelle, giraffes, monkeys, elephants, hippos, ...), but the morning was utterly unsuccessful as far as my list went. No sightings of any of these three things. I was beginning to think our luck had run out. Most park visitors miss out on these things and we were going to as well.

After a stop at the visitor's center and a short nature walk to get our blood flowing, we went back out on the plains. We had two hours before lunch to try and find something. And find something we did. Check #1 off my list. We saw two male cheetahs under a bush. It was a quick sighting, but a good one. We were able to get pretty close to them. They are such sleek animals. So cool.

The afternoon game drive was directed toward the southern Serengeti where there is a rhino conservation project. Since it is an endangered species, they do all they can to protect it while letting it remain wild and free. Our group spread out to cover more ground. We were determined to find something really good. I don't know why, but our luck was continuing because just after crossing the river we saw another cheetah. This time it was a female on a mound and she stayed up there long enough for us to get our fill.

We continued driving toward a rock formation. Such a lovely setting and nice change from the tall yellow grass. As I was enjoying the rocks, and snapping pictures, we came around a corner and in plain view, a leopard resting on the rocks. You know how earlier I said leopards usually hide when there are any unusual sights or sounds? Well this leopard must have been a celebrity leopard who is used to photo shoots because she didn't hide, she put on a show!!! We saw her from all angles. She moved around elegantly, showing of each and every one of her beautiful spots. And then did it again just to make sure no one missed it. We watched her for at least 20 minutes. Most of the time you are lucky if you get 20 seconds. Just another extremely rare occurrence that we got to experience. Check #2.5 off the short list.

Day 9 Highlights -

We left the Serengeti camp with a lovely send off from the camp crew and set out for Ngorongoro Crater. The biggest animal left on our checklist was the black rhino. The most difficult of the "Big 5" to find in Tanzania. The crater would give us the best opportunity to see one. About thirty minutes out of camp, we got a call on the radio and before I knew it we were flipping a u-turn and speeding off in the wrong direction. I had only been on safari for five days or so, but I knew this could only mean one thing... rhino! It took us a good ten minutes to reach the group who had spotted it, but we got a short look from a long distance at the endangered black rhino. 5 out of the Big 5! Our guides had done it. And worked really hard, searching tirelessly, to make it happen. Check off #2.

Just before leaving the park boundaries we saw a snake in the grass beside the road, literally. An African rock python was slithering its way toward a tree. Because of the tall grass we couldn't see the entire thing, head to tail, but from the pieces we saw, it must have been at least 12 feet long. The Serengeti doesn't disappoint!

Entering the Ngorongoro Crater is an experience in itself. A crater, 21km in circumference, that houses a whole slew of wildlife. Driving down in you notice a change in scenery. It has much more water than the Serengeti and therefore is much greener. The lush crater walls make a spectacular backdrop in every direction. We saw many of the same animals as in the Serengeti... zebras, wildebeest, cape buffalo, elephants, lions, jackals, gazelle, hippos. We even saw another black rhino (still very far away, but this time not as hidden). But my favorite sight, and the only previously unseen animals, were the flamingos. Typically I wouldn't be so fascinated by flamingos, but when there are hundreds and hundreds of them in the shallow waters and all you can see is a sea of pink, it's really magnificent!

Unfortunately, this was the end for me. A little advice... if an African safari is something you've ever thought you might enjoy, DO IT!!! Seeing your favorite "zoo animals" in the wild is far beyond anything you can imagine.

Pictures still to come... I promise!