Tanzania Safari Photos

I finally added all my photos from the Overseas Adventure Travel Safari into my Dropbox.
There are almost 700 photos. Here's a little preview:

 

 

Click here for all photos of the OAT Tanzania Safari.

(These photos accompany two of my previous posts -
Tanzania Safari: Part One and Tanzania Safari: Part Two)

Mount Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

8 days, 2 local guides, 8 porters, a stomach engineer,

2 friends/teammates from college (now each 30 years old),

1 goal: Reach the roof of Africa at 19,340 feet... and live to tell about it!

Day 7. June 22, 2014. Approximately 4:00 am. The slopes of Kilimanjaro.

My thoughts...

"Step, breathe, step, breathe, step, breathe."

"Are we there yet?"

"I can't feel my nose. I think there may be snot icicles hanging from it."

"Is it appropriate to ask the guide if he will carry me to the top? If he says yes, does it still count and how much extra do I have to pay for that?"

"Step, breathe, step, breathe, step, breathe."

Leading up to this point...

Most days were spent walking for 4-6 hours; sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less. When we were tired, we rested. When we needed to use the "internet cafe", there miraculously was always one close by with a great signal (a little mountain humor... the internet cafe was code for the toilet). There were plenty of sights to take in along the way.

 

For the most part, we had fantastic weather. There were great views of the mountain above

and cloud covering of the land below.

We also tried to learn from the guides; about their lives, their families, their jobs, their country, the mountain, local plants and animals, and some Swahili words and phrases.

In the afternoons and evenings we would unpack our bags (just to repack them the next morning), wash up (a large bowl of warm water was provided every day), and rest. When it was warm enough, we would sit and enjoy the outdoors. When it was colder, we spent time in our tent or the mess tent and would read, journal, play cards, chat... I can't speak for Mica, but I really enjoyed her company.

Camp each night consisted of a tent for me and Mica, a tent for the guides, a mess tent for dining (doubled as a porters' sleeping tent), a kitchen tent (doubled as a porters' sleeping tent), and a private toilet (just for the two of us, cleaned each day, and carried to the next campsite!). It was not quite as "rough" as either of us had anticipated.

Each meal time we would eat with a capital E! There was enough food each meal to feed a small family. Yet, there were only two of us. The chef seemed to be offended when we didn't eat every little bit of food he prepared, fearing we didn't like it. So Mica and I, being the people-pleasing women that we are, stuffed ourselves to the brim each and every meal and tea time. I don't think I have ever eaten so much in a week!

The nights were cold, but beautiful. I would be remiss if I didn't talk about the stars! The moon was relatively little each night making them even more spectacular. There were so many that it was hard to pick out constellations. Oh, and the Milky Way was clear as can be. I've never seen it so bright!

The climax of the trip is Day 7 - Summit Day.

Preparation:

Wake up 11pm - rest was hard to come by the evening before especially with the anticipation of the climb

Get dressed - 3 layers on bottom, 6 layers on top (with hoods), 2 pairs of warm socks, boots, gaiters, beanie, balaclava, heavy gloves, hand/body warmers in pockets

Finish packing daypack

Tea and biscuits

Depart 12am

The Ascent:

It begins just like every other day except you are hiking in complete darkness with just a headlamp to guide your way. All you can do is watch the person's feet in front of you and step where they step for the next 4,000 or so vertical feet. Luckily, our guides had done this hundreds of times before (no exaggeration). There are many other people setting out at the same time, so there is somewhat of a line of lights up and down the mountain. You can see other groups ahead or behind if you dare to take your eyes away from where you are stepping. As you can imagine it is steep uphill the whole way. The surface changing every so often; dirt, small rocks, sand, giant boulders.

We would break every hour or so for water and snacks if need be. Otherwise, we just kept walking. Hour upon hour. More than the summit, I was anxious for the sun to come up revealing something that would distract me from the gruelling task at hand. Eventually a crescent moon (red/orange) rose in the sky giving me something new to look at. I was still hours from the sunrise.

About 4 hours in I was really starting to get tired. My water had frozen in my Camelbak so I wasn't able to drink regularly. A light breeze started making it extremely cold on my face. I had developed a slight headache. It was gut check time. And luckily for me I had a guide who graciously took my daypack so that I wouldn't have to carry any extra weight. All I had to do was walk. Put one foot in front of the other and just keep moving.

The guides told us we were getting close, but it wasn't until we hit Stella Point at just before 6:00 am that I really believed I would make it. After a short break, we were in the home stretch to Uhuru Peak. I could start to see a little light on the horizon which was encouraging. As the sun rose, we walked the last 45 minutes without the light of our headlamps, past some towering glaciers, above the clouds, around the crater, to the summit.

Official summit time - 6:43am. We did it!!!

The Descent:

Too much time at that elevation with low oxygen levels isn't good for your body. So after just 10-15 minutes at the top we started our way back down. We got back to camp in just three hours, but the descent was extremely painful on my knees and toes. I hadn't prepared myself for this. Honestly, who thinks about what happens after you summit? The climb had taken so much out of me that I barely had anything left physically or mentally. Mica and I suffered through (as did the guides). It wasn't easy for any of us.

We made it to down to the camp we departed from, packed up, had lunch, then continued for another few hours down to about 10,000 feet for the night. In total, we hiked for 13.5 hours! I don't think it comes as any surprise that we slept extremely well that night.

It took an entire team to get us to the top and we both surely recognized that. We could not have done it on our own. A huge thank you to our Climb Kili team!

Our guides James and Visent

and porters Douglas, Benson, Job, Obidiah, Bonaventure, Patrick, Lecumo, Amani, and Genardson!

If you want to read the day-by-day reports sent during the climb, you can do that on Mica's blog:

Long Sleeves In A Short Person World.

Click here to see more photos of Mount Kilimanjaro.

Tanzania Safari: Part Two

Day 5 Highlights -

We drove up through the morning fog to the Ngorongoro Crater Rim, past some scenically-located (I think I made that word up) Maasai villages, and then headed down to Oldupai Gorge. We stopped at the museum and met with an expert on the area who explained to us that this is a very important anthropological and archaeological site. Most famously, it was here in 1959 that the Leakeys discovered fossilized footprints of a race of early humans that would later become present-day humankind. This finding lead us to a better understanding of human evolution.

In the afternoon we would get our first taste of Serengeti National Park. On the way to our campsite, we spotted three lions in the tall grass. Other animals we saw today were wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, spotted hyenas, Thompson and Grant gazelle, warthogs, jackals, ostriches, and as always some amazing birds.

Arriving at the hillside campsite it was raining, but the tents were already set up and the staff was there to welcome us. This camp, set in the heart of the Serengeti (among nature and the wild animals), would be our home for the next four nights.

Day 6 Highlights -

Amped up and ready to go, we set out for a morning game drive in the central Serengeti. The goal for this drive was big game cats. We headed towards lion, leopard, and cheetah country. Six hours later, we had not seen any of them. We had, however, seen plenty of wildlife... topi antelope, mongoose, spotted hyena, hippos (in the water), cape buffalo, hartebeest, reed bok, vultures and other birds.

After a late lunch and a short rest at camp, we went back out hoping to once again spot some cats. And let's just say the afternoon delivered on lions! First, we saw a mom with two little cubs out in the grass. Then a little later, we came across three more lions on the top of a termite mound. Driving away, all I could think was how fortunate we were to see six lions in an hour's time. How could it get any better? Here's how... a pride of at least eight lions hanging out by the river, one of them a mere 20 feet from the road!!! It was astounding!

I enjoyed a campfire, a plentiful and delicious dinner, the eyes of a hyena reflecting in the light of the flashlight on the way back to the tent (they reflect green by the way), and a glimpse of the moon and stars through the clouds before the animals sang me to sleep.

Day 7 Highlights -

Today we explored the western corridor of Serengeti National Park and picked up right where we left off the day before. Only 30 minutes into the drive, a single female lion was perched on a mound beside the road. As we watched her, she started calling out to her cubs and when they didn't come she got up and started looking for them, crossing the road in front of us to do so. When she was out of view we continued down the road.

About 5 minutes later, we came across another lion sitting in the tall grass. Upon further examination, we realized this "teenage" cub was there with some other cubs and a lead female. They were eyeing the zebras in the field and planning their attack. Slowly and one-by-one they spread out, surrounded a group of zebras, and started to close in. The lead female crept low in the grass while the cubs stood a little taller and kept their distance. They acted as a distraction as the female got closer and closer to the zebra herd. When the female was within striking distance she waited for a lone zebra to step just far enough away from the group and then she pounced! Helped by one of the cubs, they drug the zebra to the ground. One jumped on the back while the other bit at the throat. The zebra did not go down easily, but it had no chance. The cubs played joyously, celebrating the kill, and then enjoyed their feast. It was one of the most thrilling things I have ever seen!!! I had a front row seat to it all. National Geographic would have been jealous! Talking with our guide later, what we witnessed was an extremely rare sight. Not very many people get to see a lion-zebra kill, let alone the entire thing start to end. Unbelievable!

Because all of this happened in the first hour and a half of our drive, there was still time for so much more to see. In the last few years, migration location of the zebras and wildebeest has been much harder to predict. However, we ventured to an area where they might be. And once again, our guides did not disappoint. The size of the animal herds we saw migrating were spectacular. There were thousands upon thousands of zebras and wildebeest. No exaggeration! Masses of animals as far as you could see. You have to see it to believe it!

As if that wasn't enough, there were two more animals to add to the list... crocodile and the ever elusive leopard. Leopards are extremely difficult to spot. I take that back... leopards are extremely difficult to see, they are always spotted ;) But seriously, they usually hide anytime there are unusual sights or sounds. So, if you are lucky enough to view one, it is almost always from a very long distance. And for us, today, it was no exception. But I was more than satisfied with just seeing one through binoculars.

Another incredible day in the Serengeti!

Day 8 Highlights -

We woke to a colorful sunrise and started our day with a morning game drive. Two and a half things left on my list that I really wanted to see... 1) Cheetah 2) Rhino 2.5) A better view of a leopard.

We saw quite a lot of game (hyenas, gazelle, giraffes, monkeys, elephants, hippos, ...), but the morning was utterly unsuccessful as far as my list went. No sightings of any of these three things. I was beginning to think our luck had run out. Most park visitors miss out on these things and we were going to as well.

After a stop at the visitor's center and a short nature walk to get our blood flowing, we went back out on the plains. We had two hours before lunch to try and find something. And find something we did. Check #1 off my list. We saw two male cheetahs under a bush. It was a quick sighting, but a good one. We were able to get pretty close to them. They are such sleek animals. So cool.

The afternoon game drive was directed toward the southern Serengeti where there is a rhino conservation project. Since it is an endangered species, they do all they can to protect it while letting it remain wild and free. Our group spread out to cover more ground. We were determined to find something really good. I don't know why, but our luck was continuing because just after crossing the river we saw another cheetah. This time it was a female on a mound and she stayed up there long enough for us to get our fill.

We continued driving toward a rock formation. Such a lovely setting and nice change from the tall yellow grass. As I was enjoying the rocks, and snapping pictures, we came around a corner and in plain view, a leopard resting on the rocks. You know how earlier I said leopards usually hide when there are any unusual sights or sounds? Well this leopard must have been a celebrity leopard who is used to photo shoots because she didn't hide, she put on a show!!! We saw her from all angles. She moved around elegantly, showing of each and every one of her beautiful spots. And then did it again just to make sure no one missed it. We watched her for at least 20 minutes. Most of the time you are lucky if you get 20 seconds. Just another extremely rare occurrence that we got to experience. Check #2.5 off the short list.

Day 9 Highlights -

We left the Serengeti camp with a lovely send off from the camp crew and set out for Ngorongoro Crater. The biggest animal left on our checklist was the black rhino. The most difficult of the "Big 5" to find in Tanzania. The crater would give us the best opportunity to see one. About thirty minutes out of camp, we got a call on the radio and before I knew it we were flipping a u-turn and speeding off in the wrong direction. I had only been on safari for five days or so, but I knew this could only mean one thing... rhino! It took us a good ten minutes to reach the group who had spotted it, but we got a short look from a long distance at the endangered black rhino. 5 out of the Big 5! Our guides had done it. And worked really hard, searching tirelessly, to make it happen. Check off #2.

Just before leaving the park boundaries we saw a snake in the grass beside the road, literally. An African rock python was slithering its way toward a tree. Because of the tall grass we couldn't see the entire thing, head to tail, but from the pieces we saw, it must have been at least 12 feet long. The Serengeti doesn't disappoint!

Entering the Ngorongoro Crater is an experience in itself. A crater, 21km in circumference, that houses a whole slew of wildlife. Driving down in you notice a change in scenery. It has much more water than the Serengeti and therefore is much greener. The lush crater walls make a spectacular backdrop in every direction. We saw many of the same animals as in the Serengeti... zebras, wildebeest, cape buffalo, elephants, lions, jackals, gazelle, hippos. We even saw another black rhino (still very far away, but this time not as hidden). But my favorite sight, and the only previously unseen animals, were the flamingos. Typically I wouldn't be so fascinated by flamingos, but when there are hundreds and hundreds of them in the shallow waters and all you can see is a sea of pink, it's really magnificent!

Unfortunately, this was the end for me. A little advice... if an African safari is something you've ever thought you might enjoy, DO IT!!! Seeing your favorite "zoo animals" in the wild is far beyond anything you can imagine.

Pictures still to come... I promise!

Tanzania Safari: Part One

Day 1 Highlights -

We arrived in Arusha safely the night before and met our lead guide, Ishmail. We woke at 5am to loud chants and blaring music from the church next door. After breakfast and introductions to the rest of the group, we had to check out what was going on. The church (which looked like a large, cement, high school gymnasium) was packed with people from all walks of life, many dressed in beautiful colors, and singing together. Ishmail told us that this church is relatively new and has been growing rapidly. People of all religions/beliefs and even those with no beliefs come to this church because the owner has them believing he has healing powers. It was fascinating to just stand and watch.

Next, we took a drive to Shanga Workshop where the physically disabled work using recycled glass to make jewelry and glass decorations. They also do painting, weaving and make clothing.

Here, we also had a language lesson in Kiswahili and sign language with the director of the workshop, Emmanuel, and one of the workers who was deaf, Upendo. We learned only 10 words or so and let me tell you, Swahili is hard!! I did much better signing the words than speaking them.

While I enjoyed the workshop, my favorite part of this excursion was lunch at the River House Restaurant with chef Babu. He was a crack up! Such a fun-loving, friendly man that loved his job, loved his heritage, but most of all loved making us all laugh. He had plenty of entertaining stories to share. His crew prepared an array of traditional Tanzanian foods for us, picking dishes from many different areas of the country for us to try. I thought it was all tasty.

Day 2 Highlights -

This morning we added two more guides/drivers to our trip, Nathaniel and Jeremiah. We started the day at the Cultural Heritage Center where we saw thousands of handmade African crafts, some beautiful Tanzanite gems, and explored an art gallery.

Most of the afternoon was spent at Tarangire National Park. We were told not to expect too much. It was only our first day and we would have plenty of other game drives ahead where we could see more. Even with that being said, expectations were high. The day did not disappoint.

Elephants and giraffes, two of the animals that most people go on safari to see... the afternoon was filled with them! We saw so many that sometimes we weren't even stopping when we saw them. I had hundreds of pictures of just those two animals. But I had to pace myself and leave room for the velvet monkeys, impala, zebra, and about a dozen exotic east African birds. The scenery was also spectacular with the Acacia and Baobab trees scattered across the grassy plains. What an amazing day!

We would stay this night and the next at the Lake Burunge tented camp. Fabulous! For me, staying in a tent has never been so luxurious.

Day 3 Highlights -

An early morning game drive to catch more wildlife in Tarangire National Park. Additional animals seen today... African wild dog, warthog, monitor lizard, baboon, water buck, ostrich, LION, dik dik, hyrax, leopard tortoise, and dozens more exotic east African birds.

In the afternoon, we took a nature walk down to Lake Burunge and learned about some of the plant life and their medicinal uses.

Day 4 Highlights -

This day was devoted to "a day in the life" of the Masai people. We visited a village where we were able to see and experience the lives of these tribal people. The women taught us basket weaving and jewelry-making (mainly beading). We were dressed in their traditional robes and neck jewelry. We sang, danced, carried logs on our heads. We went inside their huts and learned about the way they live. We played with the kids. Some of us even plastered a hut with a cow dung and mud mixture... BAREHANDED (when in Tanzania, do as the Masai do)!

We drove up into the mountains for this night's accommodations to the brand new Farm House Valley Lodge. Spectacular accommodations with a spectacular view!

Pictures to come... I haven't had an opportunity to upload them yet.