Life is too short...: Amani Nature Reserve

In my opinion, Amani Nature Reserve is a hidden gem in northeastern Tanzania. I wish I would have planned for more time there. It is not an easy destination to get to, but it is well worth the trip.

Amani is about 30 km from Muheza and there is no regularly scheduled public transport. Having arrived in the afternoon, I had two options... 1) immediate departure via piki piki on a muddy, bumpy road with all my things on my back, or 2) undetermined departure time on a dala dala (there's no guarantee that one would be going to Amani that day or the next day for that matter). I chose the cheaper route and to chance my luck and headed to the bus stop for Amani. At the bus stop there were quite a few other people waiting to go in the same direction. That was a plus. It meant that there hadn't been a bus in a while and that when one arrived we would fill it and leave rather immediately. So, I plopped down on the ground next to some locals and waited. And waited. And waited. No bus. Just as I was about to give up and ask a piki piki driver to take me to Amani, a large "cargo" truck screeches to a halt about 100 ft up the road and everyone who I was just sitting next to runs to it and jumps in the back. I look around and think, "What the heck?" It's better than waiting and even if it doesn't take me where I want to go it will be an adventure. I catch up, throw my stuff on, and climb in back. I can see right away that this truck was recently used to transport livestock (cows I would guess). It's a little gross, but nobody else seems to care so I guess I don't either. I try to sit on my backpack, but the road is so bumpy I can't stay in one spot. Opting to not end up with cow crap all over me, I stand in direct sunlight for the majority of the ride. By the way, a couple women next to me slept for the entire drive; their bodies and heads flopping about with every bump. Amazing!

The ride was rough, but a little over an hour later the truck stopped at the Amani Nature Reserve entrance gate. Everyone stared at me. When I didn't move, they grabbed my stuff, placed it on the ground, and pointed for me to get off, so that's what I did. The truck and all the others continued through the gate (no fee required for Tanzanians) and up the road. I was a little confused as to what to do next. There was a "guard" in the shack by the gate and a small building on the opposite side of the road that looked like it may be park offices, but other than that there was nothing. I stood there for a few minutes looking around in all directions. Did I miss the town? Do I have to walk down the road a little to find the town? Am I supposed to pay the fee now? I thought I was being dropped off in the town of Amani. The plan was to find a guesthouse and then to see the reserve the next day. TIA... nothing goes as planned.

I cautiously walked past the entrance gate to the building. The gate guard couldn't have cared less. I walked up to the nearest door and peeked in the building. A man came up to the door and greeted me. He said he had a small guesthouse there, but it was completely full for the night. I would have to go 8 miles up the hill to the research center and get a room there. I had just been forced to get off the truck that was supposed to take me up the hill. Now I'm being told that I could sit and hope for another vehicle to come by to take me there or I could walk for 8 miles. Normally I'm up for a good walk, but I was NOT walking. The roads were wet and muddy and did I mention it was 8 miles.

I paid the guesthouse owner my entrance and guide fee for the following day. (Why it didn't go to the guard at the gate I don't know). Then, I sat down on the step, chatted with the man, and waited. And waited. And waited. Eventually, the group that was staying at the guesthouse (an Indian family that lived in Tanga, Tanzania) came down the hill in a pickup truck. They had been on a morning hike and were now grabbing what they needed to go swimming at the waterfalls. They graciously offered me a free ride to the research center. One long day (this was the same day I left Mtae/Lushoto on the 4am-turned-into-6am bus) can only be followed by one long, restful night.

Amani Nature Reserve is quiet, peaceful, stunning. A nature-lover's dream...