I'd already done Kilimanjaro in the same fashion about 6 weeks prior; starting at midnight, climbing in the dark, bearing the cold. And since that's the highest peak in Africa, the volcano (standing at only 9,777 ft) would be a breeze, right?
Here's the story of Andi vs. The Volcano.
(Prefaced by saying: I know nothing about volcanoes, so please forgive me when I butcher the terminology)
Before even leaving camp, I was doomed to fail. We were supposed to have two guides in case anyone wanted or needed to turn back. This would allow those who could continue, to do so. We only had one guide, a young Masai warrior named Samuel. So, we were all going to the top or we were all turning back if someone couldn't make it. The name Ol Doinyo Lengai means "Mountain of God" in Maasai language. So far God was not on our side.
Andi 0 vs. The Volcano 1
On the drive to the starting point we came across another jeep stopped in the road. As we got closer we realized they were stuck in the soft, deep sand. Every attempt to get it unstuck failed; digging out the tires, placing rocks in front of and behind the tires, rocking back and forth, tying a rope to the bumper and trying to tow it out. No success.
Andi 0 vs. The Volcano 2
After a good 45 minutes to an hour of working on it, the decision was to take the driver, the guide and the solo climber (Valerie, also from Belgium) with us to the start point. It was a win-win. She was happy to have some company along the trail. And this meant we could all walk together giving us the two guides we needed.
Andi 1 vs. The Volcano 2
We reached the starting point a little after 1am. It was over an hour later than we had intended. To say the guides started at a brisk pace is an understatement! We needed to make up time and they were determined to do it quickly. After just 10 minutes, we were all huffing and puffing. The leading guide had reluctantly stopped several times to let us catch up, but some of the others were in desperate need of a break almost from the start.
Andi 1 vs. The Volcano 3
We stopped to take a short break and while waiting for some of the group to join, we spent 10 minutes trying to explain to the non English-speaking guide that we needed a slower pace. If we walked a little slower then we wouldn't need to stop so often to rest. After being pretty certain that we got the point across and now with everyone back together, we continued.
The pace started off slower and was much easier for the group, but then the lead guide got in a rhythm again and started moving faster. I was breathing hard, yes, but I was pretty much staying with him. The rest of the group couldn't keep up as well. So, we stopped again and had a chat. We had been walking for less than an hour, it was nearly 2am, and if we kept stopping like this there was no chance to make it to the top before sunrise. This was not going well.
Andi (and her hanging-on by-a-thread climbing group) 1
vs. The Volcano (and Father Time) 4
vs. The Volcano (and Father Time) 4
The decision was made for me and guide Samuel to forge ahead and the other three would walk slower with the other guide. If any one of them wanted to turn back, they would all do it together. All possibly sacrificing their chance of making it to the top so that I had a shot. What generosity! Pressure was on, but I was determined. I had 3.5 hours to make it to the top.
Andi 2 vs. The Volcano 4
We set off at a rapid pace. Samuel led and I followed as closely behind as possible. Every so often Samuel would turn around and make sure I was still moving. I set a pace that was good for me and just kept going. Within 20 minutes we had moved from a somewhat gentle uphill slope to a much steeper ascent. The ground changed from shallow sand to deep sand making each step difficult. We had also reached the elevation where the lava chutes became prominent, meaning that the trail was not defined and we had to hop sideways from chute to chute in order to ascend. In my mind we were finally making good progress (it was dark so hard to know for sure).
However, I could feel that gradually my pace was slowing down. Then, it was like Samuel could suddenly read my mind. He stopped ahead and sat down, seconds later I joined. We rested for about 5-10 minutes. He made me eat a snack even though I didn't want to. Fueled, hydrated, and just as my sweat was starting to make me cold, we got up and started again. I was feeling good again and beginning to believe I could really do this.
Andi 3 vs. The Volcano 4
I quickly realized that the reason Samuel stopped where he did was not because he could read my mind. It was because he knew what lie ahead and that we would need some strength and energy. The terrain got steeper and the sand deeper (that rhymes). For every step forward I slid a half step back. Obviously, that one-step-at-a-time method of attack was not very efficient, so I started working in bursts. (Not my strong suit by the way. I prefer slow and steady.) Here's how it worked. I would scout out the path ahead and choose a place that looked stable enough to stop at. Then, I would run (or crawl/scamper on all fours) up to that point, as to not slip backwards. Once there, I would stop to catch my breath, let my legs rest briefly, and scout out the next point. Same thing over and over again for what seemed like an eternity.
As time went on the number of running steps I could take at one time was less and less and the breaks comparatively longer and longer...
7-10 steps, 15-20 second rest.
Andi 3 vs. The Volcano 5
5-6 steps, 20 second rest
Andi (sweaty, heart-pounding, lungs burning) 3 vs. The Volcano 6
3-4 steps, 20 second rest.
Andi (legs tired, weak, full of lactic acid) 3 vs. The Volcano 7
2 steps, 15 second rest. Ol Doinyo Lengai was laughing at me.
Andi (and my severely deflated ego) 3 vs. The Volcano 8
I was clearly losing this battle. However, a few things kept me going...
First, the other girls had sacrificed for me and by this point I knew they would never make it, so I had to give it my best shot. Second, Samuel seemed to be finding it a little difficult as well so to me that was encouraging. Third, for the most part it was a perfect night; the moon, the stars, the Milky Way, the temperature with an occasional breeze, and at times of rest almost pure silence. It was magical really. Finally, we took another break. That always gives you a chance to clear your head and put things in perspective. We snacked again and this time Samuel and I shared a Red Bull. I hate those things, but it couldn't hurt to have the extra boost of energy. I looked at my watch and it was 4am. I could do this for two more hours. And if not, at least I tried my hardest. My spirit was rejuvenated.
Andi 4 vs. The Volcano 8
Following this break, the terrain changed again. If it was possible for it to get any steeper it did, but to my relief there was no more deep sand. We had now reached a more rocky section of the climb. Instead of bursts of speed through the sand, I was bouldering up the mountain propelling myself up, over, and around big rocks (my height and longer legs came in handy for this). For me, it was slightly easier than the previous section though my quads were still burning from the high step ups. I still had thoughts of, "Can I do this? Will I make it to the top? And if so, will I beat the sunrise?". However, I was keeping up better with Samuel and I was no longer needing to stop every 20 seconds to rest. Little victories.
Andi 5 vs. The Volcano 8
As we were ascending further through the rock section, suddenly the rotten egg, sulphur smell became prevalent. To me it could only mean one thing, that we were getting close. Samuel and I stopped for one last break to energize and hydrate. I asked how much further; needing to know how hard I was going to have to push myself. 1 hour and 20-25 minutes was Samuel's response. I checked my watch again and it was 4:45am. I had to move if I was going to reach by 6am, but I could do it. Rotten eggs... could that be the smell of a comeback?
Andi 6 vs. The Volcano 8
The bouldering continued with the addition of some long sections of solid pumice-like rock slabs (possibly remnants of past lava flow). It was incredibly steep and rough on the hands when I had to use them to counteract the severe incline, but rather grippy for the feet. If I hadn't felt my calf muscles up to this point, I felt them now. I was walking on my toes up the side of the mountain and trying not to let the slope and the weight of my pack pull me backward. By 5:40am we had reached the saddle. Ahead I could see the headlamps of a small group of hikers at the top (we had gotten glimpses of their torches every so often, but were always trailing far behind due to our late start). I felt the excitement building inside. I knew I could make it there in 20 minutes if I pushed through.
Andi 7 vs. The Volcano 8
The final section may not have been the most physically difficult, but it was certainly the most dangerous. The terrain was solid lava or smooth rock at an incline of at least 45 degrees with little grip whatsoever. The mountain fell down sharply on either side of the ridge. Plus, remember it's still pretty much dark. One bad slip and you could slide all the way down the mountain with nothing to stop your fall. (Just imagine what it was like on the descent! I won't go into more detail because I've scared my parents enough.) Very carefully, I made my way to the crater rim, arriving a couple minutes after 6am, and leaving myself plenty of time to rest before the sun would come up.
Andi 8 vs. The Volcano 8
After a quick rest and sigh of relief we walked around the narrow rim of the crater to the east side of the volcano. It was still a little too dark to see in the crater, so I plopped down and faced the sunrise.
I was captivated as it rose from the low clouds spreading light over the African plains.
There were even views of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru in the far distance. Spectacular!
I was captivated as it rose from the low clouds spreading light over the African plains.
There were even views of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru in the far distance. Spectacular!
(Once again I remind you, I know nothing about the geology of a volcano, so I'll just give my best, though most likely highly inaccurate, description)
When the sun was bright enough I turned and focused on the crater. According to Samuel, I was overlooking the newest crater that was formed in the last eruption. There was a cone inside the crater that had been making minor noises since we arrived. You could hear gurgling and groaning. Signs to me that it was definitely active. Steam was coming from the opening in the top of the cone as well as the inner crater walls.
After about ten minutes of viewing, the groaning turned thunderous and it echoed off the walls. Samuel was getting uneasy, but not even for a split second was I scared. I probably should have been, but this was so cool! I secretly was hoping that there would be a tiny little burst of lava or something that would come out the top. I don't even think that's possible, but in my mind it was. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see lava, but I did get to see some rocks and ash gently spew out the top and then slide down the side of the cone. To me, it was incredible. I think the time on the top of Ol Doinyo Lengai was most special for me because I worked so hard to get there.
After about ten minutes of viewing, the groaning turned thunderous and it echoed off the walls. Samuel was getting uneasy, but not even for a split second was I scared. I probably should have been, but this was so cool! I secretly was hoping that there would be a tiny little burst of lava or something that would come out the top. I don't even think that's possible, but in my mind it was. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see lava, but I did get to see some rocks and ash gently spew out the top and then slide down the side of the cone. To me, it was incredible. I think the time on the top of Ol Doinyo Lengai was most special for me because I worked so hard to get there.
Andi 9 vs. The Volcano 8
We spent a little over an hour at the top and then started back down. The descent was torture on the legs, feet, and toes but only took about two and a half hours. One could easily stumble and tumble down the mountain with a single wrong step. Luckily, I made it down safely with just a few minor slips on my rear. Ironically, the deep sand was the easiest part on the return because I could slide my way through it. Looking back up at the volcano at the end, I thought to myself, "I did it. I was just standing at the top of that active volcano. I win! Better luck next time Ol Doinyo Lengai - Masai Mountain of God."
Andi 10 vs. The Volcano 8
